Urbanization, population growth, and improved standard of living are constantly increasing the demand for textile products. Currently, this demand is primarily addressed by increasing the production of fossil-based textiles, leading to e.g. increased microplastic emissions. Thus, there is an urgent need to develop more sustainable textile fibers to fill the textile fibre production gap in the future. Biocelsol fibers, which are produced utilizing mechanic-enzymatic treatment of cellulose before dissolution and wet spinning, are one alternative. In order to compete with the existing textile fibres, functional properties of Biocelsol fibres need to be improved.
The objective of the FUNCBIOCELCOL project is to add functionalities, such as improved absorption, liquid hold-up capacity, antimicrobial and strength properties, and improved dyeability into fabrics knitted from Biocelsol fibers. Functionalization will increase the usability of the fibres and meet the needs of specialty textile products. Functionalization is more permanent and requires lower finishing chemical dosages than conventional fabric finishing. In addition, functionalization can decrease the formation of finishing effluents.
We have shown high processability of chemically modified cellulose in dissolution and wet-spinning for FuncBiocelsol. Development in fibre strength has been very promising and the properties are approaching commercial viscose fibres. The fibres produced from wood cellulose have high brightness and exceptionally good adsorption capacity.
Proof of concept has been fulfilled in the existence of reactive sites in finished fibres, in functionalisation using thiol-ene ‘click’ chemistry and in high dyeing performance.
The performance of functionalisation has been tested in the dyeability experiments. The dye exhaustion of functionalised fibres was higher, meaning the darker shade in the final textile or a possibility to decrease the dye concentration in the dye liquor. The functionalisation also gives a possibility to decrease the electrolyte concentration in the dye liquor. All the options will reduce the environmental impact of textile dyeing.
Publications (see also links below the news item)
Vehviläinen, M., Määttänen, M., Setälä, H., and Rissanen, M. Functionalized Biocelsol - Regenerated Cellulosic Fibres with Improved Dyeability with Anionic Reactive Dyes, NWBC 2022: The 10th Nordic Wood Biorefinery Conference. Virtanen, A., Torvinen, K. & Vepsäläinen, J. (eds.). VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, p. 262-263 (VTT Technology; No. 409). https://doi.org/10.32040/2242-122X.2022.T409
Research Project Managers
Marja Rissanen, Aalto (currently at Tampere University of Applied Sciences)
Marjo Määttänen, VTT
Funded by FinnCERES 2019-2021.
The prototype dress was designed by Susanna Raiskio, and photos taken by Mikko Raskinen.
The dress was highlighted in YLE's Puoli Seitsemän program in early 2023 by Research Professor Ali Harlin, VTT.